Farmhouse Stair Renovation- Part 1

   

   

On our first walkthrough of Redwoodshire, we identified a few problems that caused us to reconsider our motto that "you can always change a house, but you cannot change the land."  My husband (whom I will now refer to as "the Laird" of Redwoodshire) and I thought, "how bad could it be?"  We drove away that day thinking that it was "that" bad.  But after some brainstorming and outside input, we came up with some solutions to the problems we found with the house.

First issue at hand: the steep & narrow staircase

The Laird practically hit his head on the ceiling whenever he walked up or down the stairs.  A problem for any person of normal height, myself not included in that population.  This would definitely be a daily annoyance for the Laird, if left as is.  

Second issue at hand:  the short ceilings throughout the second floor (an issue we will address later)

So we put in a new set of stairs in an L shape configuration.  Refer to previous image for comparison. We eliminated the hallway (to the left of original staircase), and moved the new stairs into that area.  This allowed for a normal rise in stairs, rather than steep stairs.

Newly installed L staircase.  The hole in the floor is the opening of the basement access stairs that were previously under the original stairs.  This change opened the room up and added a much needed closet.

The closet wall with finished drywall.  Access to basement converted to a trap door opening.

Now for the FUN part, painting and staining.  We opted for a "farmhouse" staircase-  stained treads with painted risers and stringers.

STEP 1)  Use hand sander to lightly sand tread surface with grit 220 sandpaper.

STEP 2)  Use painters tape to protect where the treads meet the risers.  This is to prevent too much stain from getting onto the areas that will be painted white.  Unfortunately the tape is not that effective, and stain still seeps through.  

STEP 3)  I used a regular utility rag (found in the paint/ stain section at Home Depot/ Lowes).  You can also use a brush (meant for use with oil based stains), however soaking the towel and rubbing over the surface works great.  Apply stain evenly and allow to dry for 5-15 minutes- longer for deeper & darker color.  Then use a clean/ dry rag to wipe up any stain that is still wet.  Allow to dry 4-6 hours.   Apply a second coat for a deeper/ darker color.  I did 3 coats, for good measure- however not at all necessary.

 Step 4)  POLYURETHANE STAIR TREADS

I used Miniwax Fast Drying Semi-Gloss(Satin, Semi-Gloss & Gloss options) polyurethane. Turn can over in circles (but do not shake- this will produce air bubbles in stain) until well mixed. Using a cheap 2" foam brush, apply the polyurethane in thin coats using long strokes.  Be careful no to get air bubbles.  If you do get some air bubbles, they can be gently sanded out by hand once polyurethane is completely dry. Allow to dry the recommended time (4-6 hours for 1st/ 2nd coats).  Use grit 220 sandpaper (by hand) between coats to rough up surface and allow finish to stick better.  After final coat, allow 12-24 hours to dry before heavy usage/ shoes.

   

   

  

Step 5)  TAPE STAIR TREADS.  Now it is time to tape the stair treads to protect from paint used on risers and stringers.  Like previously noted, painter's tape doesn't work perfectly, but it is a good guide.

Step 6)  Paint risers and stringers with a paint brush.  Allow sufficient time to dry and then apply 2nd coat.

VERY PLEASED WITH THE **SEMI-FINISHED STAIRS!  It was a long process, considering all the steps and wait time for drying.  I did one step/ coat a week over the period of a month, as that is what time I had available.  Because we were living and using the stairs in the process, it was important to consider only doing every other stair in each session, so that you can still use the stairs while the others are drying.  

**  We have yet to install the newel posts, balusters, railing...  They are stained, painted and ready to go- just waiting for carpenter to install.  Will update once they are done.  

Railing & newel posts- stained

Balusters- painted

Oil based stains are very stinky and it is important to wear a face mask to prevent inhaling toxic fumes.  Search oil vs. water based stains to figure out what best meets your needs.